I Own an reel from u guys but i saw some issues on the reel, the reel have some sharp edges on the frame, and if the monofilament line touch that edges it will recive a lot of damage in several cases cut the line. I search on google if someone had the same problem but i did find anything. Pictures:
do you have to pull up for the line to hit that edge?
Not always but if i forget to distrbute the linee correctly on the reel or pull the line in a certain angle desastre happends
If you allow the line to bunch up without leveling it chances are you are going to damage line on any machined aluminum reel. I well know this from some of my older Penns. It looks like you are running less line on the reel now, and perhaps we help create that problem by over spooling a reel. You should be running line down from the lip of the spool by 1/8 to 1/3 of an inch, the higher number based upon your own propensity to miss the leveling process when bringing in your line. Even if the frame was completely round using posts instead of a machined frame, you would damage line if you allowed it to bunch up and then force it from that constricted area. Take the time to level your line, otherwise you'll be needing to change out line with some frequency. Alternatively, run less mono on the spool.
But the angle necesary to made some damage on the line isnt a lot, u only need to touch the line with the frame and the damage will appear let me show the picture
I tried very hard not to do that, but i have more reels, with top and no one of these made that kind of damage on the line when i pull it with that angle.
An Accurate ATD 50W will be more rounded on the top bar's inside edge but as sharp on the top. A Penn International will be a very small bit more rounded, but damage to line will be just as pronounced if you fail to level your line. An Avet 50W with crossbar will prove about the same as the Makaira in terms of the edge. The main issue is that you need to level your line. There are no circumstances in use when you would be pulling off line from the reel as you show, so whether the edge is rounded or the cut is straighter, in practice and use it should not make a difference - the issue is not allowing the line to bunch up. Again, running less mono on the spool - about 1/4" + or - an 8th is appropriate, and very likely if you purchased the reel from us my spooling guy overfilled your reel. Frankly, this is nothing to worry about, and I really don't see a meaningful reason for Okuma to change this. However, on their 30 wide SE (special edition long range 30 wide) they do away with the cross bar since that piece is designed for use at the rail rather than trolling. In that application a top bar is more of a detriment to handling line - not from the standpoint of bunching up if one's neglegent in leveling line, more to allow palming of the spool during a fight.
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