I think I have found a strong knot for tying on a topshot to spectra. Never seen this knot in literature, but maybe it has a name; I don't know.
I'll have to give steps on this because I don't know how to make an animation...
Step 1: Have to use hollow core spectra. Use needle to make a loop at the end of the spectra. I usually go about 8 inches up the line, and leave about a 1 inch loop.
Step 2: Take your mono topshot in your hand and make a loop.
Step 3: Take the spectra loop up through the bottom of the mono loop and leave about 8 inches of the looped spectra to work with. Hold in place with thumb.
Step 4: Now, take the tag end of the mono and fold back and hold in place with your middle finger against your palm.
Step 5: Take the spectra and wind it up along the main line of the mono about 8 turns.
Step 6: Let go of the tag end of the mono and feed the end of it through the loop you made in the spectra.
Step 7: Grab onto both the tag end and the main line of the mono with one hand, and the main line of the spectra with the other hand. Pull until the knot is about half tight (just enough that the spectra loop is showing signs of tightening).
Step 8: Hook spectra loop to something that you can pull pretty hard against without damaging the spectra, and have a wooded block to wrap the mono around so you can cinch up the knot.
When this knot cinches down, it really bites down good. I call this 'setting the knot'.
After the knot is 'set', do a loop to loop to your spectra coming off the reel, and wallah, you're done! The knot looks really slick as all you will see when you're done is what looks like 8 mono bands stacked tightly on top of one another, and the very tip of the spectra loop barely visible at the end of the last loop where the mono sticks out at a 90 deg. angle.
This knot goes through the guides fairly well when reeling in, but it can hang up a bit here and there on the way out. What I do is keep the tag end of the mono cut to a minimum of 3 inches to help the main knot from hanging up in the guides.
Oops, I forgot to mention that in Step 8, you will have to make an additional loop on the slack end of the spectra, and then use THAT loop to hook up to something to pull knot tight:-)
Hey that's a great knot, ready to go fishing now
Your knot sounds quite similar to one I have in my knot book. I looked it up and posted the link below.
Is this it??
If it is the knot you are describing, I have tested it and there are better alternatives.
Have only tested line 40 lb and under. It may work well with the 80+ lines but for under 40 I might suggest the loop to an Albright as described in the Charksters Great Knot Video.
I also like the Slim Beauty, the key to this knot is making sure you tie the "Double Overhand" knot and not the single over hand knot. Because if you are using Fluorocarbon the single overhand knot will SLIP where the double overhand will not. The doubled line in the instructions below would be your loop created from the Bimini Twist or the loop that was made from the Hollow Core Spectra. I also increase the wraps on 40 and under but do not go below the 10 reccomended for any Spectra over 40.
WaltThis message has been edited. Last edited by: Walt,
Sorry I've been out of pocket lately. I found that the knot I was tying is called a worm knot. It is a good strong knot, but I find that it is a bit thick, so I have devised another method to fit my needs.
The new idealogy is to double up the mono, split the pound test in half now that there are two strands. I take a long piece, about 20 feet, and tie in a 5 wrap overhand knot right in the center of the length of line; so that puts the knot at about 10 feet.
Then I pull the knot *almost" tight, but I leave just enough slack so I can run the tag ends of both sides through the two little open loops at the ends of the *almost* tight overhand knot.
Then I pull enough of both tag ends through to be able to perform a uni knot on both sides of the of the overhand knot. Once I do this, I pull the overhand knot tight, tie both uni knots and pull those tight, then I hook one side of the loop to something and pull it all tight.
This gives you a 10 foot section of mono line that has two BIG loops.
Then, I make two 3 foot loops with spectra. Only pull one loop at this point on each spectra piece.
Then, take the unlooped side and tie in a quad loop to loop to the *exact center* of the mono loop, and run the tag end back up into the hollow core... pull tight. Do this to the other side also.
Instead of using 100lb mono to 130lb hollow core Jerry Brown, I now use 50lb mono that's doubled up with this process, so I should be getting near 100lbs test strength. It's nice on the guides too... ALOT better than that cumbersome worm knot.
I had a hard time breaking it with an old fashioned anchored pull, but I suspect I'm getting 80-90lb test as least.
The main thing is to have the quad loop to loop knots centered, or you will get a lopsided load on the mono and it will cut. Get it centered which is not that hard at all to do, and this one is a winner.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kermy,
We're really gonna need pictures on this one
"Learn from the experts, you won't live long enough to figure it all out on your own..."
LoL, Darn! OK, I can do that.
The cool thing about this setup is you can either use it like a topshot, or you can put on another 20 yard piece of spectra and use the mono section as a shock absorber for bottom fishing. I've fished it on my last trip, and was very happy with it. Only time will tell if it can handle what I think it can;-)
I have abandoned this setup. It may have it's uses, but I happened upon a better setup for the spectra to mono connection. See thread Spectra to Mono, part ??? in the forum to see new method.
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